We are on board of the expedition cruise "Stella Australis" and after a welcome drink the engine starts and the lights of Ushuaia vanish behind us.
In comparison to a real cruising ship the Stella Australis is small with a maximum capacity of 210 passengers. But it is built for the difficult waters of this area. Very soon we feel very
comfortable what is also due to the nice cabin, the two bars and the restaurant on board.
So we start our journey towards the most southern point of the world. The Beagle Canal leads us into a world of islands and glaciers towards Cape Horn. Late at night, not even recognized by most of the passengers, the Chilenian customs and immigration authorities come on board to check the passports. Also here on sea formalities have to be followed.
The next morning we have to get up early because the transfer to Cape Horn shall start at 7:00 am. Although we anchor in a quite sheltered bay the waves are remarkable. Because of the tricky
weather conditions at Cape Horn the captain only decides half an hour before whether landing is possible or not. So the tension is high and everybody feels relieved after the "okay" has been
given. So the zodiacs are brought into the water.
Zodiacs are very robust rafts with a strong engine, in our case conducted by a man, who really understands how to manage it. The (first) transfer from the ship into the shaking zodiac is a small
adventure. But everybody gets in safely despite for some wet feet due to the high waves.
The island Cape Horn as such is not very big and nearly unspectecular if you do not consider all the stories and history about it. But the awareness to be at the most southern point of the continent only a few hundered kilometres away from the Antartic is very special. On the island there is a monument in memory of all the thousands of seamen who lost their lifes here, a lighthouse and a chapel and ...wind, wind, wind.
An officer of the Chilenian navy has to stay here with his family for one full year.
Back on board the next aim is the breakfast buffet. For us the all meals are real luxury, but especially the selection of desserts is extraordinary.
In the afternoon we visit the Wulaia-Bay, in which Charles Darwin had anchored for a long time. Here the highest population of the indigenious Yamana had lived. Nowadays only one woman of these
people is still alive, being nearly 90 years old.
We hike on a hill and the view offers the whole beautifulness of the bay. It is like dream. We are sure, if we had to decide about the most beautiful places wd have ever seen, this one
would be amongst them.
The next morning there is no excursion but very interesting presentations give insight into the flora, fauna and history of the region.
In the afternoon we visit the glacier Aguila. A completely different impression: blue ice and ice boulders on the one side, snow-capped mountains on the other. And as the weather is not so
good today, the hot chocolate if wanted also with some whisky inside is very welcome.
And than the last day on board has already come. Early we visit Magdalena Island, a rocky island with one of the biggest penguin colonies (something between 150,000 to 400,000). As far as one can see penguins,penguins, penguins, they are everywhere. On land sometimes they seem to be funny but in water they are elegant and excellent swimmers. And they are curious, one inspected Holger's shoes and camera in detail.
After another good breakfast around midday we reach Punta Arenas and a wonderful and exceptional journey comes to an end.
